Peru had been sitting in the back of my mind for a few years. When I was traveling Argentina and Chile I’d looked into Spanish schools in Ecuador and Peru kept coming up as the obvious pairing — fly into Cusco, see Machu Picchu, then work your way north. It just never lined up until this October, when one of my bartending coworkers said she was in and suddenly we were actually planning it.
We booked everything ourselves — no travel agent, just Google, some rabbit holes, and a shared Splitwise app to keep the money clean between two people. If you’re traveling with a friend I cannot recommend Splitwise enough. One person books the flight, one books the Airbnb, you log everything in the app and it washes out. No awkwardness, no ‘I think you owe me,’ just even Stevens at the end.
Getting There: The Flight Logistics
We’re based in South Jersey and flew out of JFK rather than Philadelphia — Philly flights to Cusco were running close to $500-600 per person, almost double what we found out of JFK. The trick to getting to JFK without breaking the bank: Amtrak from Philadelphia 30th Street to Penn Station in New York runs as low as $10-12 a person if you book early (it can jump to $100 if you wait), then a subway to Jamaica station, then the AirTrain directly to the terminal. Budget about three hours total from Philly to being at your gate. We caught a 6pm Amtrakfor a 10pm flight, got to JFK with time to spare, and felt good about not paying $50-$100 for a shuttle.
The flight routed through Bogota with a layover — if you find yourself there, Columbian lemonade (even in the airport) is legitimately worth tracking down, as my friend who’d been to Colombia before insisted and was completely right. Then one more flight into Cusco. Customs on arrival was slow, not because of crowds but because there seemed to be one attendant working. Budget an hour. From the airport we used Uber — walk past the taxi queue outside the terminal, pull up the app once you’re clear of the building, and you’ll save money with full price transparency.
One packing note that saved us money throughout: we both packed light enough to fly carry-on only, which kept our base ticket prices down. The trick we used at the gate — if an agent is walking around offering to check bags for free before boarding, flag them down every time. Your bag gets checked at no cost, you board without the overhead bin stress, and you pick it up at baggage claim. Works more often than you’d think if your not afraid of your luggage getting lost.
Altitude: What to Actually Expect
Cusco sits at around 11,000 feet. That’s the number people lead with when they warn you about Peru, and it’s worth taking seriously — but not panicking over. A lot depends on your baseline. I’d lived in Vail for three years sleeping at 8,000-9,000 feet every night, and had just come off hiking a 14er in Colorado the month before, so altitude was never a concern for me personally. But sea-level dwellers sometimes genuinely struggle with headaches, nausea, and fatigue the first day or two.
What helps: coca tea. You’ll see it everywhere in Cusco — cafes, markets, your Airbnb. It’s made from coca leaves, it’s legal and traditional, and locals swear by it for altitude adjustment. We bought dried leaves at the market and made tea throughout our time there. Whether it’s placebo or real, we felt fine and it was a fun thing to participate in. You can also buy Diamox (altitude sickness medication) at pharmacies in Cusco without a prescription if you want that option available.
One more thing worth knowing: when you actually get to Machu Picchu, you go down in altitude from Cusco. The ruins sit lower in the mountains. So Cusco is actually your altitude peak for the whole trip I do recommend arriving a few days prior to any Machu Picchu excursions to allow for acclimation.
Arrival and the First Dinner
We landed and had two days in Cusco before our Machu Picchu tour. The first day we just walked — dropped our bags at the Airbnb, which had genuinely beautiful views over the city (Cusco is hilly and the higher you go the better the vista, worth keeping in mind when booking), and just started moving through the streets with no real agenda.
For dinner that first night we stumbled into a mom and pop spot on a side street called Julieta — the kind of place with a handwritten menu offering three or four choices and a few plastic chairs. We had no idea what we were ordering beyond pointing at what the table next to us had. Both of us got different plates — one pork, one chicken — each came with a bowl of chicha morada, the classic purple corn drink that tastes faintly sweet and completely unlike anything else, and the food was just simple, good, comforting. We each paid about $6. It was the cheapest meal of the trip and one of the best moments of it.
The Food: What to Eat in Cusco
I’ll say this clearly: Peru has some of the best food in South America and Cusco is a great place to eat your way through it. We approached every market and street corner like a tasting menu.
We started at San Pedro market, here’s what to look for. Papa Rellena (stuffed potato), a Peruvian comfort food, we found a version of this at the market that was cheap and filling. Lomo saltado is a stir-fried beef dish with tomatoes, onions, and fries mixed in — it sounds simple and is somehow perfect. Butifarra is a Peruvian pork sandwich, understated and delicious. The juice stands are everywhere and will blend anything you want together for almost nothing — we got multiple combinations every day. And the fruit: chirimoya (a creamy, custard-like fruit unlike anything in the US) and aguaymanto (small golden berries, tart and addictive) and maracuyá (passion fruit) were things we ate constantly and couldn’t get enough of.
For a proper sit-down dinner we went to KUSYKAY Peruvian Craft Food, which was an upstairs restaurant near the plaza. Everything we ordered was phenomenal — braised short rib, ceviche that was as good as ceviche gets, fresh juices with every meal. The presentation was beautiful and the price was reasonable for the quality. Go hungry and order more than you think you need.
For breakfast and pastries, Café-Panadería Panam & Co. became our spot. Homemade croissants, good coffee, the kind of place you want to sit in for an hour. And for the best empanada of the trip — possibly one of the best empanadas of my life — Organika Bakery & Coffee, right near the main plaza. Get there early, order multiple.
One more thing: queso helado. You’ll see people walking around with barrel-shaped containers selling it from the street. Despite the name it’s not cheese ice cream — it’s a rich, intensely creamy vanilla-adjacent frozen dessert that is just outstanding. You will see someone eating it and want one immediately. Get one immediately.
The Balcón del Diablo Hike
Our second day we did the hike behind the city and it turned into one of my favorite days of the whole trip. Start by making your way up toward Cristo Blanco — the large white Christ statue visible from much of Cusco — and take in the view of the city from the Mirador de San Cristóbal on the way up. There are vendors at the top selling all kinds of small things, and we found a basket labeled ‘sorpresas’ — surprises — where for one dollar you picked a small wrapped present. We each got one. Mine was a little bracelet. I loved everything about that interaction.
From there follow Don Bosco Street, which winds past the ruins of Sacsayhuamán. Note: there’s a fee to take the official trails through the ruins themselves, which we skipped since we were more in walking mode — but you can see a good amount from the street level. Just be aware there are cars driving on Don Bosco so stay alert.
Eventually the street gives way to a dirt road — turn left and follow it past farms and fields. The local farmers here are incredibly kind; more than once, when they could see we were finding our own way, someone pointed us in the right direction without being asked. I recommend downloading an offline map before you go to help stay on track. The trail winds up toward the Balcón del Diablo viewpoint — the Devil’s Balcony — which gives you a sweeping elevated view back over the city and the valley.
On the way down we came through Calle 7 Borreguitos, one of the most charming streets I’ve seen anywhere — narrow, filled with flower decorations, almost out of fairytale. It’s well known in Cusco and you’ll find plenty of tourists trying to capture it, but it earns the attention. Worth every step.
This hike is free, takes most of a day at a walking pace, and gives you a completely different perspective on Cusco than the plaza and the tourist circuit. Highly recommend doing it before Machu Picchu while your legs are fresh. One warning — high elevation means you’re closer to the sun. It may feel cool and breezy but wear sunscreen. We learned the hard way on this one and looked like lobsters for a day. Bring water, or know that there are a few small shops along the road where you can pick some up.
The Alpaca Week Performance
One afternoon we were sitting in the main plaza when a performance started — a full cultural reenactment in traditional native Peruvian costume, with singing, dancing, and what appeared to be a ceremonial offering. We later learned it was tied to Alpaca Week, an annual celebration of the alpaca in Peruvian culture.
What made it special was that we’d stumbled across rehearsals earlier in the day without realizing that’s what we were watching. Then we happened to be in the plaza for the actual performance. Even without understanding the language you could follow the arc of it — offerings to the gods, warrior sequences, ceremonial dancing. The costumes were extraordinary. It was one of those travel moments that happens entirely by accident and stays with you.
The History Walking Tour
On day three we did a free walking tour of the city — the free kind where you tip the guide at the end. Honest assessment: the history is genuinely fascinating and the guide was incredibly knowledgeable. I just have a limited capacity for sustained history absorption before my brain checks out, and so does my friend. By about the ninety-minute mark we were both gone.
That said I’d still recommend it, especially because guides on these tours always give the best local food and neighborhood tips that you won’t find on Google. Ours pointed out the market, gave us restaurant recommendations, and walked us through areas of the city we wouldn’t have found on our own. Just go in with realistic expectations about how much history content you can actually retain in one go.
Practical Notes for Cusco
Flights: JFK to Cusco via Bogota runs around $260-300 if you book a few weeks out. Philly direct options exist but run significantly higher. Factor in ground transport to JFK if you’re in the mid-Atlantic region — Amtrak from Philly 30th Street to Penn Station can be as low as $10-12 booked in advance.
Altitude: Cusco sits at ~11,000 feet. Give yourself at least one full day to acclimate before doing anything strenuous. Coca tea is everywhere and worth trying. Diamox is available at local pharmacies without a prescription if you want it. Drink water constantly.
Sunscreen: Wear it every single day, more than you think you need. The altitude and equatorial sun combination is brutal. Both of us got badly burnt on the first sunny day despite thinking we were being careful.
Accommodation: Cusco has great Airbnb options at very reasonable prices. Look for something with a view — the city is beautiful from above and you’ll appreciate having that to come back to.
Money: Peru uses the sol. USD exchanges well. Carry cash for markets, street food, and smaller restaurants. Cards work at most sit-down restaurants.
Getting around: Uber works well in Cusco and is generally the right call from the airport. Taxis are fine too — just know the rough rate before you get in.