After falling in love with Puerto Varas, we took a short trip south to Chiloé Island and based ourselves in Castro, the island’s colorful capital known for its iconic stilt houses (palafitos), authentic fishing town vibe, and mouthwatering seafood. With just two days to explore, we dove into the best of what this unique place has to offer.
Getting to Castro from Puerto Varas
There are two main bus companies that run from Puerto Varas to Castro: ETM and Cruz del Sur. You can book tickets online or directly at the station. We chose ETM and purchased tickets in person at their office (intersection of Ramón Ricardo Rosas & San Francisco).
- Tickets: ~$15 USD
- Includes: Bus ride to the ferry terminal, ferry crossing, and final leg to Castro
The journey is part of the adventure. Your bus drives onto the ferry, and passengers can either stay on board or step out for fresh air, a snack, and a coffee. The crossing is short, but scenic. Just be sure to reboard the bus quickly when it’s time to go—the transition is fast and well-orchestrated.
Buses run several times a day, and we had no issues booking a day ahead in November (shoulder season). The bus dropped us at Terminal de Buses de Castro, centrally located.
First Impressions of Castro
Castro felt different than any other place we visited in Chile—a working port town with a real sense of local life. While plenty of tourists pass through, the town maintains a strong authentic identity tied to fishing, agriculture, and Chilote traditions.
The famous palafitos (colorful houses on stilts along the waterfront) give Castro its iconic look. They’re not just for show—people still live and work in them, which adds to the feeling that this is a place rooted in its own rhythm.
What to Do in Castro
1. Explore the Markets
Mercado Municipal Lillo
This vibrant market is the place to go for fresh seafood, local produce, and regional specialties. Inside, local artisans also sell crafts and souvenirs. Head upstairs to find a series of small restaurants where we had one of our most memorable meals.
We ordered a massive seafood pot brimming with mussels, sausage, and potatoes, all simmering in a flavorful broth. We also had a fried white fish that was fresh, perfectly seasoned, and flaky. No English menu, but the friendly staff helped us navigate with our basic Spanish. We left stuffed and smiling.
Feria Artesanal
Next door to the main market, this artisanal fair is filled with locally made wool products like socks, ponchos, and sweaters. It’s a great spot for souvenirs and a chance to support local makers.
2. Sample Local Food & Cafés
Beyond the market, Castro has a surprising variety of restaurants—from sushi to Italian—but it’s the local fare that stands out. We tried several places and were never disappointed. One highlight: Magnolia Café y Pastelería, where I had one of the best slices of cake I’ve ever eaten alongside a strong coffee. The desserts were decadent and beautifully made.
3. Visit a Gym in a Palafito
True to form, even our gym visit in Castro was memorable. We found Stilt House Gym, located in one of the town’s iconic palafitos. The space was huge, with cardio machines, weights, and a second level for lifting—plus panoramic views over the water. The staff was friendly, the day pass was affordable, and it was an unexpected highlight of the trip.
4. Wander the Town
Castro is best explored on foot. Walk down to the port, wander through neighborhoods of stilt houses, and don’t miss Iglesia de San Francisco, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its unique wooden architecture and vibrant yellow facade.
There are lookout points throughout town where you can take in views of the water and rooftops. Even in the rain, there’s something peaceful about slowly wandering Castro.
Flying Out of Castro
We booked a direct flight from Castro to Santiago—a surprisingly convenient option. The Castro airport is about 12 miles (20 km) outside of town, so you’ll need transport.
We found a shared shuttle service leaving from the main bus terminal. It cost about $10 USD per person for the group option (a private ride is closer to $20). The airport is tiny, security was quick, and the whole process was smooth. We arrived early and had plenty of time to relax before boarding.
Final Thoughts
Two days was just enough to scratch the surface of Castro’s charm. From hearty seafood to artisan wool, misty coastal walks to gym sessions with a view, it was a unique experience that felt worlds away from mainland Chile. If you’re curious about a different pace and deeper local culture, Castro is well worth the journey.
